sweet hitchhiker

After spending three amazing days at Lake of Stars, it was time to head home. We were all in such high spirits and so confident in our abilities that we decided it would be a good idea to hitchhike back to Lilongwe. Boy, were we in for a whirlwind trip.

First, some of us had to go to the ATM to make sure we had enough cash for the ride. While Matt and Bilas were at the ATM, the rest of us started playing a card game just outside the campground entrance. Within seconds, twenty or so Malawian children had formed a circle around us to watch. The thing that really transfixed them was the way we shuffled; every time one of us shuffled there would be smiles and laughter and the occasional applause. It was such a real "in it" moment. They had no idea what we were playing and we had no idea what they were saying, but we were all content to just share each other’s company.

We stopped to buy fresh coconuts on our journey. Coconut milk is
delicious!

But all too soon Matt and Bilas returned with their money and it was time to hit the road. So we loaded up our packs and began walking towards the main road underneath a blazing sun. When we reached the main road we had our first brief hiccup – we couldn’t agree on which direction to go… But within five minutes a pickup truck had pulled over and agreed to take us to the Mangochi turn-off. We were pumped! We all jumped into the back of this guy’s truck excited that we had “mastered” hitchhiking. 

The truck bed we stuffed ourselves into.

Boy did we have a lot to learn. The guy that stopped to pick us up was one of the many unofficial taxi’s that operate in Malawi, so when we negotiated a ride to Mangochi we didn’t realize that he would be stopping every 100 meters to pick up anyone and everyone who was looking for a ride somewhere. Crazy stuff happened on this truck ride. We rode with (and held) live chickens, we ate coconuts and I even got petted… It took us over two hours to travel 60 kilometers and when we finally arrived at the Mangochi turn-off it was dark and our prospects of hitching a ride were slim.

Some of our travel companions.

But the Lake of Stars gods were on our side. After an hour wait – during which I was growing increasingly nervous – a white truck pulled over for us. The driver was a French gentleman who was living in a self-sustaining compound that sought to help educate local children. It was another tight fit in the back of this guy’s truck, but we were all so grateful that we would have ridden on his roof if necessary.

Bilas and Bryan crammed in the back of our French friend's truck.

Our French friend dropped us off at the Balaka bus depot where we were informed that there would be two more buses to Lilongwe that night. Feeling relieved, we all traipsed into a local restaurant (we filled the restaurant) for some nsima and chicken. We were all so happy to be sitting in real seats that we fell into a stupor and almost missed the bus back to Lilongwe! Matt had to bang on the door in order for them to let us board. And when we finally piled in, there was standing room only. This bus ride was something else; there were times when we were maybe going 4 km/hr and then there were times when we were cutting corners and barreling down dirt roads at ridiculously high speeds. About halfway through the bus ride exhaustion hit us. Without any second thoughts, we all lay down in the bus aisle and were asleep within seconds. When I came to, it was a little after one in the morning and we were pulling into the Lilongwe bus depot.

An exhausted Matt and I standing on the bus ride.

I still can’t believe that we did it. And I don’t think I ever need to do it again. But hitchhiking back from Lake Malawi was one of the best adventures I have ever had.